And now, let's get to the tutorial for today: how to draw wrinkles in fabric
I took an image from Google and I used it to decompose the shapes that I am sure you are not very used to see. In fact, every drapery has folds that can be decomposed into primary shapes like: cylinders, cones, spheres - that are tree-dimensional shapes or flat shapes- like triangles, rectangles or round shapes.
We will note the tree-dimensional shapes with 1, 2,3: 1 means truncated cone, 2 means cone and 3 means tor - a shape that seems like a bagel.
There are also connection figures like the shapes we will highlight next to the drawing.
The bi-dimensional shapes are noted with A, B and C.
Once again, we will use the same image, to underline now the direction of shading. After decomposing the shapes in order to know what forms are composing our drapery, now we need to know how to shade them, in which direction.
And we will re-draw the shapes.
Watch carefully the arrows that underline how you should use your pencil and what would be the direction of shading the cloth.Of course that the flat shapes are shaded in one way and the round, 3D shapes are hatched on their generator line.
See that the curved arrows can be concave or convex, so that you can shade them properly.
Below, in an A, B and C frame we will underline some types of shading: the 45 degrees shading, the intersection shading or the gradient.
Depending on the typo of fabric, you can use one or both or all of them.
Just a simple example now to see how to shade a part of the clothing with these 3 simple techniques of shading.
The construction of the folds, the light and shadow will be the same, this time, we changed only the technique of shading.
Another rule of shading says that in a drawing you should have many tones of gray. The more you have, the accurate your drawing will be.
Draw the large area of light and shadow, as you can see now. The areas 1, 2,3, 4 are also marked on the drawing, so that you can see and know how to shade the fabric. In a drawing it happens that you can have the same number more times, because this it what happens in the real life too.
The most important thing is to keep your eyes half closed to see what areas are darker or lighter.
Like always, we will start by constructing the shape of the drapery. This means, you have to measure first the length and the width of the big volume, meaning the exterior contour of the drapery.
After that, make sure you underline the areas that are in the light or in the shadow. Establish a source of light and be sure you will respect it on the entire surface of your drawing.
I saw a lot of drawings that respect the light in small parts - I mean, each folding has the proper light but the entire volume of the drapery seems flat at the end. This happens because you don't keep your eyes half closed to see between your eyelashes.
When doing this, you will see that your drapery needs volume for each cylinder that compose the material but also the full volume should respect the same shading rule.
If the light comes from the upper left, this means each folding will have the lighted part on the upper left and the shadow part on the other side. Also, it means that the whole drapery will have the cylinders in the upper left part lighter than those in the lower right part let's say.
For better results, make sure you will have good quality pencils, and for this I would recommend Toison d'Or or Koh-I-Noor 8B pencils.
If the pencil black enough - it means from 6 to 8B, you will be able to have different tones and intensity of light and shadow.
Using hard pencils like HB or H or F ( F comes from fine pencils) you will not obtain dark shadows as you can obtain with the black pencils like 8B.
Do remember what I said in my previous videos regarding the hatching. Use this time the gradient as a technique for shading. If the pencils are too greasy, use a white sheet of paper beneath your hand.
Regarding the cylinders, see the fact that each cylinder has a shadow of his own, but in the same time it projects a shadow on the next cylinder beneath.